Chanel’s Wanted De Chanel capsule watch collection recaptures the glory of ’90s fashion watches

As Capsule collections roll out, Chanel’s Wanted watch assortment is both perfectly suited to this market and harkens back to the 1990s, when fashion watches from Guess to Gucci set the tone for logo-adorned collections. The trend was so hot at one point that I remember buying a t-shirt touting a popular fashion watch with a logo that read, “Over a million out of stock.”

Chanel’s Wanted capsule collection is the luxury take on this trend, and as such takes the concept to the next level. It starts with the basic concept of reproducing the logo on different parts of the watch, but it accelerates the concept from simple stamping to the inclusion of high-level horological elements: diamonds, ceramic construction, COSC certified mechanical movements , lacquered dials and above all, thoughtful and creative design. The logo is handled tastefully, if not discreetly. Six series make up this capsule collection, each interpreting the six capital letters of the Chanel logo differently. The other big difference between these watches and the fashion watches of the 90s: they are all limited editions – there will be no shortage of stock.

1. Chanel’s J12 Highly Wanted box is a set of six logo-laden interpretations of the iconic J12. The 38mm watches are matte black ceramic with Chanel lettering on the bezel and on the black enamel dial. It contains the automatic caliber 12.1, with an exhibition caseback, where you can see a ring of 34 diamonds on the rotor. It is COSC-certified for its precision and has a 70-hour power reserve. The box is in black lacquered wood. There are five numbered sets.

2. and 3. The Chanel J12 Wanted is available in either a 38mm black ceramic with a bold white Chanel logo on the dial, or a 33mm white ceramic version with the polished rhodium Chanel lettering on the dial and in silver on the bezel. The black version contains the 12.1 caliber and has an exhibition caseback, but no diamonds on the rotor. The white version is in quartz.

4. Chanel’s Premiere Wanted displays the letters of the logo as charms, suspended from the braided leather chain strap. The case is in steel, with a black lacquered dial and an onyx cabochon in the crown. It’s quartz.

5. On Chanel’s Boy-Friend Wanted, the six palladium-plated letters of the logo are riveted to the leather strap, with CHA on one side of the case and NEL on the other. The black lacquered dial features a pixelated design in the spirit of the 90s. It’s quartz.

6. Chanel’s Code Coco Wanted also adopts the graphic power of the six letters on the leather strap. The clasp-like design of the dial mimics the clasp of Chanel’s iconic 2.55 handbag. The dial is in black lacquer and the strap is in quilted ceramic. The movement is quartz.

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